Reflections on a soul’s pilgrimage | Journey to Masjid Al Aqsa: A Spiritual Odyssey in Jerusalem
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Reflections on a soul’s pilgrimage
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Journey to Masjid Al Aqsa:
A Spiritual Odyssey in Jerusalem
November 20, 2018
By: Javed Akbar
Out of the blue, my son turned to me with a question that took me completely by surprise.
“Papa, are you ready to go to Jerusalem?” he asked, his green eyes sparkling with excitement.
I stared at him, stunned, and managed to reply, “What do you mean, Nabeel?”
With a confident grin, he continued, “You and I are going to Jerusalem. I’ve already booked the tickets and spoken to Mom – she’s all for it. “
We boarded Air Canada, our hearts heavy with anticipation, and reached our long awaited destination: Jerusalem, where history breathes in every stone. It’s more than a place. A pilgrimage of the heart. A journey that stirred my soul with a deep, and a sacred blend of longing and reverence.
JERUSALEM
In Islamic tradition, Jerusalem is revered as one of the holiest cities, cherished with deep religious significance. Known as Al-Quds (The Holy) and Al-Bayt Al-Maqdis (The Sacred House). It is home to Al-Masjid Al-Aqsa, the "Farthest Mosque," which is mentioned in the Qur’an in Surah Al-Isra (17:1) as the stop over of the Prophet Muhammad's (may the choicest peace and blessings be upon him) miraculous Night Journey (Isra) and Ascension (Miraj). This city, so sacred, it holds a deep significance for the Abrahamic faiths –Judaism, Christianity and Islam–resonates with a timeless connection where the echoes of the past fuse with the prayers of the present.
The earliest known inhabitants of Jerusalem were the Canaanites. The city was later inhabited by the Jebusites, a Canaanite tribe, until it was conquered by Prophet Dawud***** (David) around 1000 BC¹. Then prophet Sulaiman***** and so on. It has been a focal point of religious devotion, cultural heritage, and political power for millennia. This ancient city has seen numerous upheavals and transformations, from biblical times to the present day, each leaving a reflective mark on its character and identity, testament to shared spirituality and enduring reverence. The narrow streets of the Old City of Jerusalem, which are either worn stone pavement or paved with cobblestones, seemed to hold the secrets of the ages. Each step revealed a new wonder: the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, its dimly lit alcoves redolent with the scent of incense and reverence; the Western Wall, its ancient stones bearing the weight of countless prayers and tears.
Inspired by Rumi***** this poet so vividly captured the fabled city of Jerusalem; his words echo like a timeless serenade.
O’ Jerusalem, O’ Jerusalem
Your name is the symbol of peace
But in your streets, war's fierce tempests
Have left the scent of blood and tears
O’ Jerusalem, O’ Jerusalem
City of prophets, city of saints
Your stones have witnessed the rise and fall
Of empires and civilizations
We had lunch in the heart of the Old City, on its busiest street—though it felt more like a narrow alley, lined with cobblestones that had been worn smooth by countless footsteps over the centuries. Shops and restaurants crowded together along the way, and an ancient-looking church stood sentinel, its weathered stones telling tales of bygone eras. In truth, everything on the street looked ancient, as if time itself had paused to preserve this place.
As we settled into our seats at a small restaurant facing the street, we could watch the world unfold before us. Locals moved with the ease of familiarity, schoolchildren hurried by with the lightness of youth, young armed soldiers here and there and visitors like us wandered with wide eyes, captivated by the sense of history that clung to the air. It was as if we were watching a scene from a Hollywood epic, yet this was no set—it was the real, living remnants of biblical times, a place where the past felt startlingly present. Watching the ebb and flow of the crowd, we felt as if at any moment, Roman soldiers on horseback might come clattering down the cobblestone street, their armor gleaming in the sunlight. The scene before us was so steeped in history that it seemed the past might break through at any moment, dissolving the present into a vivid tableau of ancient life.
Al-Haram Al-Sharif (The Noble Sanctuary)
As you enter the precincts of Al-Haram Al-Sharif (The Noble Sanctuary) in Jerusalem, The vast expanse of the courtyard unfolds before you, framed by ancient stone walls and lush courtyards. As your eyes adjust to the grandeur of the site, the first major landmark you encounter is the Dome of the Rock. Its golden dome, shimmering brightly under the sun, captures immediate attention and commands reverence. The Dome of the Rock is well-known for its breathtaking architectural beauty, with its dome gilded in pure gold², making it one of Jerusalem’s most iconic landmarks.
The narrow entrance to the basement of the Dome of the Rock leads to a small cave, barely large enough to accommodate 10-15 people and a small platform. We were told that our noble Prophet***** sat on this platform before embarking on his Night Journey. It is widely believed that he tied Burraq, a celestial steed that brought him from Makkah for a stopover at Masjid Al Aqsa, to this massive rock before beginning his onward journey of Isra and Mi'raj.
Many take the Dome of the Rock as Masjid Al Aqsa. The Dome of the Rock and Masjid Al-Aqsa are two distinct structures within Al-Haram Al-Sharif (The Noble Sanctuary) in Jerusalem, one of Islam's holiest sites. The Dome of the Rock, with its iconic golden dome, marks where Muslims believe the Prophet Muhammad***** ascended to heaven. Masjid Al-Aqsa, located to the south, where according to the prophetic tradition led the prayers for the Prophets³
The two buildings, separated by approximately 200 meters, (about 650 feet) align along a north-south axis. Visitors can easily walk between them, enjoying the contrasting yet complementary significance of these historic landmarks**.**
MASJID AL-AQSA
The Second House of Allah on Earth.
Abu Dhar Ghiffari***** reported that he asked the noble Prophet (saw), “O Messenger of Allah, which mosque was first built on the surface of the earth?” He said, “Al- Masjid-ul-Haram (in Makkah).” I said, “Which was built next?” He replied “The mosque of Al-Aqsa (in Jerusalem).” I said, “What was the period of construction between the two?” He said, “Forty years.”**
Al Masjid Al Aqsa was the first qibla in Islam and it has been a significant and important place of worship for the Prophets of Islam. Up until the 2nd year of Hijra (623/624AD), the Prophet Muhammad***** turned and faced Al Masjid Al Aqsa as the direction for his prayers.
In 638 CE, Jerusalem was surrendered to Umar ibn al-Khattab***** the second Caliph of Islam. The city's inhabitants, primarily Christians, negotiated the terms of surrender, which were famously compassionate and respectful of the existing religious communities.
Following its capture, Jerusalem emerged as a significant city within the Islamic world, recognized for both its religious and strategic importance. The area known as Haram al-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary) became a pivotal religious site, while the Masjid Al-Aqsa as we see it today, was constructed several decades later by the Umayyad Caliph Abd al-Malik and his son Al-Walid I, in the late 7th to early 8th century.
Islamic tradition recounts that Prophet Suleiman (AS) undertook the reconstruction of Al-Masjid Al-Aqsa with the assistance of the local population. The mosque's imposing walls, constructed from enormous boulders, naturally raise questions about the human capacity required to maneuver such gigantic stones. According to belief, Jinns, under the command of Prophet Suleiman (AS), played a crucial role in this grand endeavor, aiding in the placement of these massive blocks. My understanding of history was affirmed by our guide, an Imam of a local Masjid in Jerusalem. In a quiet corner of the Masjid, I noticed a young man surrounded by books spread out on the carpet. I soon learned that he was a university student preparing for his exams, expressed the same time honoured beliefs that had been passed down through generations of his family in this ancient city.
The entire Haram Al Sharif – the sanctuary is situated on a higher plateau overlooking the city of Jerusalem, offering panoramic views of the Old City, Jabal Al -Zaytoun (the Mount of Olives), and the surrounding areas.
Upon crossing the threshold, I was met with a sense of reverence that permeates every inch of this sacred space. The walls, constructed from massive boulders, stand as a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of bygone eras. The air is alive with the whispers of the faithful, their prayers and Duas creating a felt atmosphere of devotion.
Sultan Saladin Ayyubi (1137-1193)
After conquering Jerusalem on October 2, 1187, Sultan Saladin Ayyubi reclaimed the city for the Muslim world, ending two centuries of Crusader rule. The Mimber, the iconic pulpit gifted to Masjid Al Aqsa by Saladin Ayyubi was masterfully constructed with over 10,000 interlocking pieces of cedar and other wood, as well as ivory, all assembled without a drop of glue or a single nail. Tragically, it was ravaged by arson in 1969. A reconstruction of the minbar, crafted by an international team of experts, was installed in its place in 2007. Today, this replica stands as a poignant reminder of Saladin’s legacy extending far beyond his legendary military conquests. His profound respect for his enemies, which in turn earned him their admiration, is etched not only in the chronicles of history but also in the hearts of Muslims as a unifying and compassionate leader.
As our nation struggles the treacherous waters of political disillusionment and utterly disappointing leadership, the memory of Saladin Ayyubi shines as a beacon in the darkness. We hunger for a leader of unyielding courage, unwavering faith and an impeccable integrity– one whose wisdom, and indomitable spirit will guide us, as Saladin once did, toward a future of triumph and graciousness.
At this moment, the boundaries of time and space appear to dissolve, connecting me to the countless number of people who have trod this sacred ground, their hearts ablaze with faith and their spirits soaring on the wings of devotion.
As I sat on the russet prayer carpets of Al Aqsa on that blessed day of 12 Rabi’al-Awwal 1440 AH the wide doors seemed to murmur tales of devotion, the rhythmic recitation of the Qur’an, through the air, and the walls, sculpted by mythic time, seemed to echo with timeless reverence.
In the open expanse of the Haram Al-Sharif, a large number of people gathered—men, women, and children—united in chanting nasheeds with harmony, their voices melding in a celestial chorus to celebrate the noble Prophet's birthday. Alhamdulillah. It was a heart-melting moment, a scene so awe
-inspiring and otherworldly that it will forever be etched in my memory.
Visiting Masjid Al Aqsa and offering prayers within its sacred precincts evokes a profound, indescribable reverence– a depth of enlightenment that exceeds the limits of expression, a feeling that settles deep within the soul, beyond the reach of words, yet, resonating through every fibre of one’s being with an otherworldly harmony.
We were advised—indeed, cautioned—that the Masjid and the entire Haram al-Sharif area must be vacated immediately following Isha prayers, in adherence to stringent security protocols. The atmosphere was evidently tense, underscoring the seriousness of the regulations in place. As we were leaving the premises, a contingent of young soldiers, their guns slung over their shoulders, took up positions at the gates, their watchful eyes scanning the crowd with vigilance as they exited the mosque compound.
HEBRON (Al -Khalil)
Masjid Ibrahim/Ibrahimi Mosque
Hebron (Al-Khalil) is approximately 30 kilometers from Masjid Al-Aqsa in Jerusalem. The actual travel time can vary significantly due to the presence of multiple Israeli checkpoints, security measures in place and roadblocks, which often lead to delays. It took us more than an hour to reach Hebron.
Perched atop a hill of solid rock, the tiny Ibrahimi Mosque commands a striking presence. Climbing the steep, unforgiving steps was no easy feat, but with each labored breath, I couldn't help but reflect on the mosque's profound historical significance, rooted in millennia of faith and tradition. Every step was a reminder of the countless generations that have walked this same path, their legacy etched into the very stones beneath my feet.
The Ibrahimi Mosque (Cave of the Patriarchs) in Hebron
reverently Enshrines the symbolic tombs of Hazrat Ibrahim, Ishaaq and Yaqoob******* nestled within the prayer halls. These venerable markers commemorate the prophets, while their actual resting places, along with those of their esteemed wives, the matriarchs, lie hidden deep beneath the mosque, in a cave approximately 30 meters (about 98 feet) beneath the surface, inaccessible to the public.
Within the Ibrahimi Mosque, a small opening in the floor allows you to gaze downward, about 30 meters (approximately 98 feet) into the depths of the sacred burial chambers. This vantage point offers the closest proximity to the ancient tombs of the patriarchs and matriarchs, rendering it a poignant point of interest to devotees. As the only window into this revered site, the opening fosters a profound connection, bridging the physical and spiritual realms.
This viewing point highlights the deep reverence for the burial sites of Prophet Ibrahim, his wife Bibi Sarah, and their descendants. It seamlessly links the mosque's present structure with the ancient heritage of the patriarchs and matriarchs, emphasizing the site's divine religious significance for both Muslims and Jews.
These sacred sites– Dome of the Rock, Masjid Al Aqsa, Hebron and Jerusalem itself, though often scarred by conflict and division, are not merely monuments of stone and history, but enduring testaments to the power of faith and common heritage that spans centuries and continents. They remind us that in these hallowed grounds, the past and the present converge, whispering of compassion, understanding, and the hope for a future where the sanctity of humanity is revered and preserved.
The reverence of these sacred sites by Jews, Christians, and Muslims cry out for shared guardianship, echoing the United Nations' vision of Jerusalem as an international city. Yet, the current reality of singular control, raises concerns about the erosion of inclusivity and accessibility, defying the very essence of this shared legacy of cultural and spiritual heritage.
Acknowledgement: Nabeel, the gift of this journey will forever reside in my heart as a cherished memory. May you be abundantly blessed.
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The author can be reached at: [email protected]
* May the choicest blessings of Allah be upon him/them
* May Allah be pleased with him
** https://perugiapress.org/2023/11/emerging-biwoc-poet-spotlight-39/
Masjid Al Aqsa is referred to as “The Far Mosque” due to its mention in the Quran in
the context of the Night Journey (Isra and Mi'raj). In this event, it is described that
the Prophet Muhammad was transported from the Sacred Mosque in to the
“farthest mosque” (Al-Aqsa) in Jerusalem The term "far" signifies its Makkah distance
from Makkah.
*** The poem is attributed to Rumi; however, an unknown poet has crafted these verses in his style.
¹ In Islamic tradition, Prophet Dawud is regarded as a prophet and king who established his rule in Jerusalem. While the Qur’an does not provide specific details about the conquest of Jerusalem, it acknowledges Dawud’s significance as a ruler.
The Bible account: The conquest of Jerusalem by King David described in Bible: 2 Samuel 5:6-7
² Our guide, an Imam from a local masjid who is fluent in English, has lived in
Jerusalem for generations, the guide informed us that the Dome was gold-plated during King Husein’s reign 1953-1999.
3. Sahih al-Bukhari
4 Reported by Sahih al-Bukhari, Muslim and Tirmidhi
5 The United Nations initially envisioned Jerusalem as an international city under a special international regime. This idea was first articulated in the United Nations General Assembly Resolution 181, passed on November 29, 1947. This resolution, also known as the Partition Plan, proposed the division of Palestine into two states—one Jewish and one Arab—with Jerusalem being designated as a corpus separatum (a separate entity) to be governed by an international body.
The intent was to ensure that the holy sites within the city would be accessible to all and protected from any single nation's control, given the significance of Jerusalem to Jews, Christians, and Muslims alike. However, the plan was never fully implemented due to the outbreak of conflict in the region following the resolution.
While the idea of Jerusalem as an international city has been referenced in various UN discussions and resolutions over the years, it has never been realized in practice, and the city remains a highly contested and politically sensitive area.